A pond with clear water is an attractive feature in your garden and brings many hours of enjoyment and relaxation.
A well built pond adds value to your property.
A green pond is unappealing to look at and makes it difficult to determine
whether your fish are diseased or hurt.
Algae also pose a threat to your fish as it starves them of essential oxygen.
TRON: “I have been involved with fish and fish breeding since I was 12 years old and have always had an interest in using technology that creates a biologically self-sufficient system.
Low maintenance with excellent results must be the ultimate aim.
But there are no shortcuts if you are serious about keeping Koi. Do it right the first time
and you will have many years of joy. A pond must be a delight and not a headache.”
TRON: “I have learnt of a system which I use myself, the High Pressure Biological Filtration System
which has proven itself over the years. This High Pressure Biological System is compact and can be sited away from the pond. All pipe work can be buried or concealed. Ball Valves can control all flows. Water can be piped up to waterfalls and water features without ugly raised gravity systems spoiling the aesthetics.”
In order to ensure that your pond water will always be
CLEAR, CLEAN and HEALTHY all year round
a Pond Pump must be installed. Pond Pumps have open impellars and therefore small debris does not cause the pump to block and burn out, as it would when using a Swimming Pool Pump.
a HIGH PRESSURE BIOLOGICAL FILTRATION SYSTEM consists of:
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Domed Koi-Pond Bottom Drains to remove debris on pond floor.
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Flush Box for ponds from 20 000 litres.
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Weir Skimmer to remove floating debris.
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Under Water Returns to move water towards the bottom drain(s)
allowing the waterfall or water feature to be switched off. -
Waterfall or Water Feature for aeration and aesthetics. The bottom drain removes water from the bottom of the pond … where there is less oxygen …and delivers it to the water surface via the waterfall or water feature, allowing for a gas exchange and aeration of the water.
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Koi Sand Filter for mechanical filtration. This removes the dead algae and other pond debris
from the system. -
Biological Boosters to encourage colonies of nitrifying bacteria. The BIO BOOSTER contains
filter medium designed to provide maximum surface area for nitrifying bacteria to colonise.
These bacteria convert toxic nitrites and amonia into harmless nitrate. -
Ultra Violet Clarifiers to destroy algae and pathogens. An Ultra Zap U.V Sterilizer
will maintain a clear pond throughout the year without the use of chemicals.
The unit works by exposing the phototrophic micro-organisms (free floating single-celled algae) to a dose of U.V. radiation. This destroys and prevents the regrowth of the phototropic micro-organisms. If algaecides are used, you run the risk of over-treatment and/or residual chemical build-up in your pond. The inhabitants, fish and plants, of your pond are to some degree sensitive to algaecides. With the use of an Ultra Zap unit you stand no risk of this.
EQUIPMENT SHOULD BE SIZED ACCORDING TO POND SIZE
Pumps: 250w, 450w, 600w, 750w, 1100w, 1500w, 2500w
Sand Filters: 2, 3, 4, 5 or 7 bag sizes
Ultra Violet Clarifiers: 9w, 15w, 30w, 55w.
Bio Boosters: 5 ltr, 15 ltr, 25 ltr, 50 ltr.
A pond of 20,000 litres and bigger MUST have at least ONE 110 mm Bottom Drain as well as a Flush Box:
These two pictures show the BIO SYSTEM that WATER DYNAMIX installed for
a pond of approx. 300,000 litres, with 3 bottom drains and a Flushbox:
The High Pressure Biological System MUST BE CONFIGURED CORRECTLY.
The rate of water-flow through the various components MUST be regulated with control valves.
If this is not done correctly, the system will fail.
a High Pressure Biological System runs on VERY LOW MAINTENANCE:
once per week: backwash, rinse, top-up water
once per month: open gravel filter, put your hand in and stir the layers of gravel in order to break the crust of dead algae; then backwash, rinse, top-up water …
For more detailed pond service instructions, please click on:
ONE droplet icon to download POND MAINTENANCE picture file (1.3 MB)
TWO droplet icon to download POND MAINTENANCE text file (130 KB)
If this maintenance schedule is adhered to
we GUARANTEE you
CLEAR, CLEAN and HEALTHY WATER ALL YEAR ROUND!
U V LIGHTS
ULTRAVIOLET is a term used to describe the wavelengths between the blue-violet range of the visible spectrum and the shorter wavelength or X-rays.
UVc is often referred to as germicidal wavelength, because of its ability to destroy micro-organisms. When water is passed through a U.V. steriliser, micro-organisms contained in the water come into contact with UVc radiation emitted from the germicidal lamp. The UVc radiation penetrates the cell membrane and thereby either destroys or debilitates the micro-organism.
Different micro-organisms vary in their susceptibility to UVc radiation. The most sensitive and hence the easiest treated, are some bacteria and most phototrophic organisms such as those found in ponds and aquaria. Extra levels of UVc easily control bacteria, such as Escherichia Coli, viruses and pathogens.
It is therefore essential to have a high level of radiation, as it will ensure that there will be
NO POND SMELL
There are many hazardous and pathogenic aquatic organisms that can be controlled given the correct UVc radiation dose. Correct application will dramatically reduce the likely spread of most primary infections such as Odinium Sp. and Cryptocaryon, at the same time almost eliminating the risk of secondary bacterial infection, which is so often the real cause of fish loss.
This is achieved by controlling the potential populations of heterotrophic bacteria, which are often associated with an unhealthy aquatic environment.
N.B. The Ultra Violet Light Tube weakens due to usage, and thus must be changed regularly.
Even though it may still glow, the output of the tube cannot be determined by the naked eye.
Regular replacement of the tube is the only way to ensure “peak performance.”
THE TUBE IN THE POND U.V. UNITS SHOULD BE REPLACED EVERY 9 MONTHS
BIO BOOSTERS
In order for your pond to maintain water of a high quality
it is essential to ensure that a biological booster is used.
BIO BOOSTERS are one of the most essential components of an efficient re-circulating system
in a Koi Pond and are necessary to remove Ammonia and Nitrite.
Millions of colonies of Aerobic (oxygen loving) Bacteria grow in the Bio filters and thus
it is essential that the pump recycling water to the bio filter is continuously running 24 hours a day. Maximum operating pressure is one bar.
It is important to remember that biological filters can take 6 to 8 weeks to establish.
It is therefore recommended that all new ponds and ponds that have entire water-changes
are kick-started with "BIO VITAL" to establish viable bacteria colonies.
BOTTOM DRAINS
A BOTTOM DRAIN is there to remove everyday waste that settles at the bottom of the pond, such as faeces, dead algae, excess koi pellets and any dirt that has blown into the pond and sunk to the bottom.
BOTTOM DRAINS ARE CONSIDERED AN ESSENTIAL IN KOI KEEPINGTHESE DAYS
A slightly concaved profile in the bottom of your pond when fitting a bottom drain, will help the debris to pass straight through into the bottom drain and save you a substantial amount of cleaning time which can instead be spent enjoying your Koi.
The Bottom Drain (in ponds of 20 000 litres or more) is linked to your Flush Box and from there
pumped to Waste (... easy to clean).
Ultra Zap manufactures an extensive range of bottom drains for all applications:
Planning for your Bottom Drain
should be carefully done, as it is essential that the position of the drain is correct, in order to ensure that it operates efficiently. Preferably a central position is best, with the surrounding bottom sloping down toward the drain itself, thus allowing the debris to be drawn into it.
Pipework:
It is important to allow free movement of the debris within the pipes. You do not want to create sharp bends with 90º corners, as these could block up and reduce flow. 45º bends are much preferred.
The pipe and drain should be concreted in and the concrete should form a saucer around the drain. Ensure the concrete goes up to and under the lip of the drain, to prevent a gap that will trap debris and put great stress on the bottom drain.
PLEASE NOTE:
All content contained within this site is for historical and portfolio purposes only.
Water Dynamix is currently under new management and this website bears no reflection on its present owner.
